The Louis Moinet Metropolis in Magic Blue and Magic Green

I’ve been wanting to write about these Metropolis models for a while ever since getting to try the “Magic Blue” version on in late 2017. The Magic Blue Metropolis had been released that same year at Baselworld and both “Magic Green” models would soon join it at Baselworld 2018. If there’s one thing I can say, it’s that these Metropolis models are truly overlooked gems.

The watches are available in 316L stainless steel for the Magic Blue model, and both steel and 18kt rose gold variants for the Magic Green model All three models come in a case size of 43.2mm. The bezel on this watch has a sort of gear look to it and has six screws going through the bezel. I can only think that this bezel reminds me of what a combination of a Vacheron Constantin Overseas bezel and an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak bezel would look like. The bezel takes the gear look of the Overseas (so much so that the Vacheron and Louis Moinet “gear” bezels both have six teeth), but flattens the curve of the outer edges a bit to make them look more straight like the Royal Oak. The fact that we get the bezel screws look here also doesn’t do anything to lessen the Royal Oak ties. Additionally, for those of you wondering why the screws in the bezel of the Louis Moinet aren’t all perfectly aligned like those of the bezel of the Royal Oak, the reason is that the Royal Oak’s “screws” are really more of bolts. Bolts can be played with to look like perfectly-aligned screws. Actual screws, on the other hand, wouldn’t make sense to have perfectly aligned in practice, as the process of ensuring the threads start at the same point for each screw would be painstakingly difficult. The magic green or blue dial really pops in person, but while I’d really like to know what creates this effect, Louis Moinet keeps the material they use to create these dials a secret. Either way, there’s no escaping that these dials look really incredible in person.

Viewable through the sapphire case back is the Cal. LM45: a 22 jewel, 28,800 VPH automatic movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The rotor features what looks like a concentric Clou de Paris pattern in rose gold. The Metropolis models shown here come on black or blue crocodile straps; each strap comes with a folding clasp for easier wear, with each clasp being decorated with Louis Moinet’s Fleur de Lys.

Earlier drawings of the Metropolis Magic Green:

As I mentioned above, I got to see the Magic Blue Metropolis in person not too long after it was released. You notice there’s something special about this watch from the second you see it. After playing with it for a little bit, I was impressed with how well designed it was and how good it felt to wear. What really surprised me later on was when I learned the price. In stainless steel, this watch retails for just a little more than a stainless steel Submariner. This is something you’ll likely never see on someone else’s wrist, unlike a Submariner; comes from a watchmaker with a ton of history; has a lot of dressier qualities to it, but can definitely be worn as a sports watch; is a limited edition; and could be gotten at the time immediately without a waitlist. Sure, Louis Moinet is a lesser-known company, even for some watch enthusiasts, and is typically known more for their chronograph models (as Louis Moinet invented the chronograph), but I feel they definitely should receive more attention for these Metropolis models. They’re priced very well, cover both sports and dress, and have not only a great look, but the history and watchmaking expertise to back it all up. Going back to the Submariner comparison, I have a green Submariner (and I really enjoy it), but if both watches were put in front of me, even with the slightly higher price of the Metropolis, I think I’d pick a Magic Green Metropolis the majority of the time.

All three models are numbered and limited to 60 pieces each. Prices for the Louis Moinet “Magic Green” and “Magic Blue” watches start at 10,500 CHF.

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